Today’s bespoke shoes and similar have the stiffeners made out from veg tanned thick leather pieces and attached between the leather layers and hardened using paste, very much exactly the way it was done 100-150 years ago. For mass produced shoes, during the 1900s one went away from leather toe stiffeners to the much quicker and cheaper celastic ones (plastic impregnated fabric), and they are what’s used also on premium Goodyear welted factory-made shoes. Even if the heel stiffener is made of real leather on those, toes are plastic, the practical advantages of leather vs celastic toe puffs aren’t considered worth the higher material and especially production costs.
Conclusion on John Lobb Paris Ready-to-Wear Shoe Sven Raphael Schneider: Outer layers seem to be a quality, you know, calf leather. Interior, surprisingly, we have the shank. Metal reinforced some kind of artificial material shank. And then, these kinds of pressed leather products here surprised me. I would have expected maybe higher quality leathers throughout, maybe even for the heel cap, the toe cap. Considering the price, I’m a bit disappointed by that.
(拙訳 – John Lobb Parisのプレタポルテに関する結論 スヴェン・ラファエル・シュナイダー: 表地は上質なカーフレザーが使われているようです。内部構造は、意外にも金属で補強された何らかの人工素材のシャンクが使われていました。 そして、驚いたのは圧縮された革のような部材です。ヒールキャップやトゥキャップを含めて上質な革を使っているのかと思いきや、そうでもないようです。値段を考えると、ちょっと残念です。)
Cutting It Apart/ John Lobb Shoes (RTW Vs. Bespoke) | Gentleman’s Gazette https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/cutting-apart-john-lobb-shoes/
Leather Board – a leather composite pre-molded and cut to be in the shape of a heel stiffener. This is supposed to be the closest thing to leather and what most people that like to discuss shoes via the internet like to claim as the best and if a shoe does not have this then it is not top rated
Things that Truly Don’t Matter in Shoes – Don’t Believe the Hype. Part 1 – Heel Stiffeners – The Shoe Snob Blog https://theshoesnobblog.com/things-that-truly-dont-matter-in-shoes-dont-believe-the-hype-part-1-heel-stiffeners/
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